What Do The Colours Of Shag Ties Mean?

Birthday Bulnesland


late afternoon in the Orange from the Well of Prayer

exactly one year ago today I started the blog in Bulnesland.

Yesterday, as if by magic, I completed Lurgorri page, the last path opened so far in the Naranjo, and with it the last page of Bulnesland.

After a return to the escalation pedrizera, abandoned for years, a summer walk by again Urriello breathe in me the admiration and the desire that Naranjo had just awakened when twenties, early 80's, walked to the old shelter with a heavy backpack by Channel Camburero; alone until under a maze of blocks of limestone, and near Vega de Urriello, I met a young Catalan also only up for the same purpose as me: climbing the South. The time and luck was with us and then we top radiant brothers forever. I forgot your name but not your smile, and your accent Catalan.

The following year, on a jet chartered as a mule, which was parked in the Winter of Texu, came close to Picu by the then dangerous sleepers Collado Vallejo, before to open the current path. A countrywoman more, all in black, the Terena, looked at me and laughed at my pint, "non e Esi chalecu Tuyu, huh?"
I was going to be "mine" this black vest, put up a long sleeve polo with horizontal stripes yellow and blue! But for me it was the height of geek.

luck again smiled at me and in the company of Galician as motorcycles jumped, I got to the Caprice Venus. "Cro-Magnon", so nicknamed for its resemblance to a primitive man, quiet but with a heart like a bullring, firmly assured me as I climbed the last plate difficult so hard for me that was almost crying with rage to keep from falling. Shortly

account in my history about Orange, but the desire and admiration to Picu and its people are even greater, and past the line of my fifty.

This purpose has encouraged me to go this year Bulnesland forming, reorganizing scattered material on the Internet, to provide a complete visual image of all climbing routes, and make it available to the climbing community.

Congratulations and thanks to all those you give life to Naranjo.
This will also give me life to me.

bye, Fernando

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Lurgorri 2006


Ref: Pouanaiak


Ref: TorresToneo


Working on the first long


ROOF OF THE CAVE OF BULLETS TO LURGORRI


Ref: TorresToneo


Carlos del Campo, Directísimo opening in 1974, admiring the ice column Bullets Cave
Ref: Carlos del Campo


Piolet Traction Cave Balas the

Story of Michelangelo Mora (Biafra) on the artificial opening in the roof of the cave
Bullets "In the summer of 1979 know in Marin Cristian Vega of Urriello shelter, and quickly comes a great friendship between us.
One morning we decided to visit the Cave of the bullets, at the base of Shots Torchia, as we have said that is a very interesting place. Once there, we're dedicated to gather a soil sample of a small sphere-shaped stones, which attract much attention, because we know that the name of the cavity derived from them. "

" Fascinated by that environment we do not direct our eyes to the impressive roof that rises above us. We found a crack that runs through it in its entirety, and began to dream of a beautiful climbing away from the vertical. Thus, we decided to organize it for next summer, as they also face This is part of our projects to open in the PICU.


Biafra and Cristian Marin opened in 1980 the roof of the Cave Balas

"In early July 1980 the first shots ring hub in the cave, and we are gradually equipping the huge overhang. At all times we progress using plugs and stoppers, and at no time did use of chisels. We take this climb with some philosophy, and we alternate with other activities. We came to the cave at mid-morning, through the "jumar" and the fixed ropes we won the highest point reached yesterday. Then we moved a few feet from the crack, and when we looked good, we returned to the shelter. Thus, in four or five attacks, and after forty feet ceiling, won the vertical edge of the cave, and assemble a meeting with golo Cassin and several pins.


In a repeat of the roof

"We left the team and went over to do other instances with others. Shortly after we recover all the material and leave only a fixed rope hanging from the meeting. Our idea was to build the road, to win the top of the Shots Torca. But other projects we occupied, and at the end of summer, a very strong fall I had in the east of Naranjo, definitely blocked the project. "


along the roof Reclaiming

" I still remember how we played free climb in the beginning of the overhang, and a half in jest, half seriously, we said that probably in the future some of these get Freeclimber overcome all the ceiling without using stirrups and no points for help. Past 27 years was born via "Lurgorri" of the Pou brothers. "
Ref: Biafra in A5Lunnis
o0o

LURGORRI OPENING IN 2006 BY BROTHERS POU

The brothers Iker and Eneko Pou have opened in the Naranjo de Bulnes Lurgorri road and shortly after have been released into free climbing, with a proposal of difficulty of 8c +, which then must be confirmed by other climbers.


Opening Lurgorri
Ref: Case Pouanaiak

confirmed that degree of difficulty by other mountaineers worldwide be the first time in the history of mountaineering such milestone is achieved both by Basque climbers.

The new achievement of the Pou brothers are not within your project includes seven walls, Seven Continents, which are left to be done in Antarctica and Patagonia, although it has served to put the icing on the Trilogy of Naranjo. Alava
Brothers have already made before, and climbing, three-way Naranjo de Bulnes own: Cantabrian Pilar (8a), Zunbeltz (8b, 500 meters) and Fifth Empire (8b, 500 meters ), which form the trilogy known as peak Asturias.

"Liberation of this pathway can be considered as a global brand and, when compared with athletics, we are talking about a world record of 100 or 1,500-meter sprint, "said Javier Baraiazarra yesterday, a member of the advisory team of the Pou brothers and responsible its website.
Ref: Noticias de Alava


The route was opened by Iker and Eneko on the west side of the Naranjo de Bulnes on July 17, 2006. A week later, the brothers got to Lurgorri work for chaining. And finally liberated on August 13 the 250 meters, at the moment, is the more difficult path of Picu.


Pou brothers perched on the Cave of the Balas

Iker proposed 8c +, degree imposed by the first and the hardest of the 6 long road. The first roll of 35 meters starts in a cave whose roof resembles that of Baltzola and goes a long rift that has no insurance expansion.

Iker like a bat in the first long

In the remaining long on insurance also. Quite the contrary. In the second, 7b, and the third, 7a, there is only insurance.

Eneko long
second

above Eneko

The fifth shot, 7c +, is the longest, with a total of 55 meters long and is, according to friends, the more psychological. Huge falls for a long insured with 8 expansive.
Ref: pouanaiak.com
o0o


Dani Andrada Lurgorri repeated in 2008

Madrid climber returns to Dani Andrada Naranjo de Bulnes, more than a decade after his last visit to repeat the 250 meters opened in 2006 by Iker and Eneko Pou in MURAZ most famous of the mountains of Asturias.

It has taken 13 years for Dani Andrada he returns to Naranjo Bulnes, and has done so with the machinery at full capacity. The "viejomutante", as it has been renamed to their just turned 33, he could repeat Lurgorri, a path of 250 meters Iker and Eneko Pou opened in mid July 2006 and released just a couple of weeks later, cotando entire itinerary as 8c +.

Andrada had prepared thoroughly, trying out different rocks and walls and taking a few red spots in recent weeks; Black pearl, 8c + sector Rodellar The Piscineta, for example.
A haircut then going on for six long the route that runs along the west face of Naranjo, more specifically through the right side of buttress.
We expect the exponent of free Picu, a route that is broken down as: 8c L1, L2 7b, 6c + L3, L4 V, L5 and L6 7c IV.
Ref: Vertical

Story by Dani Andrada
On 14, Pep S. Naranjo pal and I go, women are in Rodellar ... From the 95 that had not returned to Picu and it was time ... The aim was to choose between: "Lurgorri", "Zumbelt" or "Fifth Empire" and end ... for gold, in theory, harder: "Lurgorri" a way that had chained and opened two years ago Pou brothers.

the first day, after accidentally kicking the cable car down the road, we went directly to see and ride the first lap. Tremendous disappointment that was soaked but finally, after three hours, Pep and I came to the reunion.
This is a roof over 25m with a 5m out. The first 15 meters were to be protected with many friends and stoppers because it is very close to the ground, but actually the hardest of length is the starting block, which is semi with 4 nails very precarious. The Pou brothers cotaron this long 8c +.

Dani Andrada on the roof of Lurgorri
Ref:

The second day we went to see the top of the track, I long for the second view, 7b (two sheets in 30m but easy to protect), and the third 7th (one sheet at 35m, but could only protect the bottom) and the fourth, a V of 35m above as it was impossible to protect.
The problems came in the fifth over. A course on the 8th all broken. I started climbing and I was breaking every song he picked up. I got off and decided to go up at him. Clean the area well and then chained to the first hit. It is a 55m long with 8 bolts away and you can get a friend. A long relatively easy when you know it.
After this long and finally came a V with no insurance to find a Session lost on the road on the left, quite a trip ...


Ref:

Last day, the first long chain objective. Heating first and then hit chain. In my opinion, although I respect the opinion of Iker, I think it could be instead of 8c 8c + and I found many recessed knee that allowed me to rest well. At the end could have continued and repeat the above long as they were at 12 noon, but I do not worth it and I think sports is a way but a long way, has no difficulty maintained.

Overall route has not seemed too much rock as compared to others of Naranjo.

We were very happy with the deal that gave us Tom and the entire team Picu refuge. Again by the other ... at the moment to return to Rodellar for women ...
Ref: Dani Andrada
o0o

Lurgorri means "red earth" in Euskera and refers to the color of the floor of the beginning of the road.
Ref: escalamos.blogspot.com

Ref: TorresToneo

Why is called Cave of the Bullets?

Ref: TorresToneo


beads or pisolithic: are like balls consisting of concentric layers have grown on a core of sand or similar. They form in small buckets of water under steady drip.
Their size varies from few mm to 15 cm. Usually appear together in "nests" with numerous specimens.
Ref: espeleokandil

o0o

Bubonic Plague Bird Mask

El Quijote 4 º Centenario 2005


Illustration Enrique Herreros
Ref:


dawn in the east face
Ref: Madveras


The year 2005 was held on 4 th anniversary of the publication of Don Quixote, universal book written by Miguel de Cervantes.
For this celebration we wanted to dedicate a track on the universal also Picu Urriellu, what better excuse to escalate!
Throughout the year, no one gave him anything like the writer and his book, so we are doubly happy.
Ref: Andrés Villar


SKETCH


Ref: Andrés Villar


DESCRIPTION

The route is a more on the Northeast side Picu, via long, committed, with little kit and somewhere above, not the quality of the rock (which in general is good) but for what we leave in the long, only 3 nails and 4 bridges of rock, especially in meetings, is what is going to find you want to repeat. You should go with the idea of \u200b\u200bopenness and have a good deal of guidance is not out of the route, stoppers and a set of aliens is enough for climbing.

The route crosses the road Treparriscos niche at the height of Rocinante. Don Quixote is a slight bias to the left to get in the great crash vertical yellow. The first ascent

lasted about 6 h. Has a length of approximately 390 m. This is in addition to the exit road spur Cepeda.
Ref: Andrés Villar
o0o


The openings of the Quijote, the previous year on top with Pedro Udaondo.

The noiés Villar Andrés Murillo, was a member of the Group of Mountain Rescue and Intervention in Civil Guard and instructor in the School of Jaca, with extensive experience in ransoms. It's the biggest opening of channels of Naranjo de Bulnes (Asturias), with a total of fifteen, among which are The Turquoise Goddess , the longest of all the existing 1,100 meters, open in winter. Among other peaks climbed Mont Blanc and the Cima Grande di Lavaredo. Participated in the story of Love and Hope for the program At the edge of the impossible.
Rubén Suárez Carballo, fireman Cee in the park, is opening four tracks on the Naranjo de Bulnes and several climbing routes on Mount Pindus, among which is the way Tell the sun. Whitewater kayaker and guide the company ravines Fronteira Noroeste, also an instructor for Rescue Fire Height parks Natutecnia company. Teammate Pablo
Fadeville Cajus firefighter is also Park in Santa Comba, plus graduate INEF, and opening the way Quixote in the Naranjo de Bulnes.
Ref:



Enrique Herreros, passionate mountaineer, the Naranjo de Bulnes
Illustrator five different collections of Don Quixote and owner of more than 300 editions of Cervantes' work, will be remembered the bust by decision of the Potts Corporation, the city where he died when I practiced climbing.
Ref:

& See Amazing History Villar Andrés Naranjo in the page Celtic Twilight . O0o

Free Pinky Masterbation

Centennial 2003


Picu Bluff on the centenary of the first ascent

"For years waiting for this moment, on 4 August 2004. I knew we would join a good group climbers, some friends had not seen in a long time, others that each year we gather in the shelter and not possibly meet again in a long time, but I'm sure this day would be all that would not break anyone, it was as an event without be cited, as a magnet that attracted us to these walls and in its centenary year we would all go to worship him as if it were un dios.

"Casi lo es para muchos; por si acaso mi amigo y colega de escaladas Ruben Suarez y yo, nos adelantamos a la fecha abriendo un año antes. La via que ya llevara su nombre y recuerdo de este dia, la via “Centenario”, fue pensada para este glorioso dia del alpinismo español, los días 14 de Mayo, que abrimos la mitad de la ruta y que dejamos por falta de tiempo, hasta el 7 de julio de 2.003 que la rematamos, con 14 horas de escalada , dejándola con una dificultad de Muy Dificil Superior (máximo 6b+/A0) y 670 metros de longitud, siendo una de las mas largas del Naranjo".
Ref: Andrés Villar


CROQUIS


Andrés Villar routes in the Northeast face
Naranjo Ref: Andrés Villar


Ref: Fernando Calvo


Villaret

DESCRIPTION

begins in the Canal de la Celada, right of way Panic Terminal, by some visible cracks, and four long (IV + / V / V +, V / V + / IV, III + and III + / IV / III + ) is reached under a typical crash, which is flanked by his right about twenty feet. Two long
forty
m (V + / III + and IV / III +) can reach via niche-Cainejo Pidal. Three other

rope rolls (V-V + / V and V + / IV-) situate us on the Grande Corniche along which the road Schulze.

starts now be under the heavy burden of the central north face climbing to the left (III +).

The following long followed with the same direction (V + / 6a), to turn sharply to the right and set up the meeting in the bottom left of that heavy burden (this section has three espits, ensuring the most difficult) .

The following eighteen meters (V +) allow us to link with Panic via Terminal, laying continues for another two lengths of rope (6a + / V +, 6b + / 6a / V + / V) to place ourselves above the slab of the mill.

Two long over, slightly diagonal to the right (III + / IV +), lead us to the chimney outlet through which runs the track Pidal-Cainejo, why we continue to the summit (III + / II). O0o

Ref: Isidoro Rodriguez Cubillas Naranjo de Bulnes : A Century of Climbing.



At the top of the mountains always have a few surprises, this time was to see appear to Carlos Suarez, who came to track Rabada-Navarro alone.
was during the centennial of the first ascent of Naranjo de Bulnes. Pilis, Paul, Ruth and I would join us later, Carlos Suarez, enjoy top, time, friends, a good day of climbing.
Ref: Andrés Villar

& See Amazing History Villar Andrés Naranjo in the Celtic Twilight page. O0o