"Orbayu name is due to the typical Asturian light rain," explains Eneko. "We put this name because, although we are of the Basque Country, Asturias is like our second home. We have years of climbing in this area and we have a special relationship with this land. In addition, we have "suffered" the Orbayu almost more than ever during the preparation of this road! "
El Naranjo de Bulnes Urriellu Picu. Photo: Tim Kemple
Iker says the arrival of his brother Eneko to the top of Picu Urriello. Photo: Tim Kemple
Graduation is held as planned and decided to propose 8c + / 9a for passing be the big wall route more difficult in the world.
Orbayu lies primarily in being able to take the high difficulty of climbing a mountain wall and the west of Naranjo de Bulnes, where insurance is very unsafe leads, nails falcate, micro stoppers, friends ... - and the potential drop can be up to 20 or 25 meters.
Iker in L5: 8c + / 9a. Photo: Tim Kemple
Iker Another take on the L5: 8c + / 9a. Photo: Tim Kemple
Eneko in L1: 8a +. Photo: Jabi Baraiazarra
SKETCH
Orbayu for free is a line that combines four new long by the collapse of the Vermilion, six road Mediterranean and three in the Rabada-Navarro.
The route is as follows:
L.1: 8a +. 38 m 6 parabolts. Part broken, then step hard block, and hold up the chain.
L.2: 8a. 25 m and three of bolts. Hard block entry, hold and block out hard.
L.3: 8a. 25 m and five parabolts. Five plates on plate stiff resistance collapsed last step perfect and hard without protection until the meeting.
L.4: 7a. 25 m and three of bolts. Hard step input, hold on to secure a long way, another step difficult and technical to the chain plate.
L.5: 8c + / 9a. 37 m and two parabolts new variant for free. The first part of 7c + / 8a very technical way, a block of 8a + / b graduation boulder on "Drawings" and last part of bided and 8b monodedos around track. The first part and the last insured on leads, falcate and small stoppers nails embedded with potential falls of up to 20-25 m.
L.6: 8a +. 30 chisels my assurance on very old and deteriorating. First hard part secured on leads, then hold another drive and easy to block the meeting.
L.7: 6b +. 55 m plate technique. Assurance on friends and nails falcate.
L.8: 6a +. 40 m vertical plate technique secured over rock bridges, nails falcate and friends.
L.9 5. 45 m fine with almost assure passage.
L.10 5. Dihedral 50 m Fireplace secured by friends to Roca Solano.
L.11: 5 +. 60 m and the junction of two lengths of the Rabada-Navarro. Friends and nails.
L.12 5. 35 m from the pediment of Rabada. Friends and nails.
L.13 5. 45 m of the last pitch of the pediment of the Rabada-Navarro and summit. Friends and nails.
mutual congratulations. Photo: Tim Kemple
"We hope this route will help increase international fame as the Naranjo de Bulnes climbing mecca. For us is the level of big walls in Yosemite U.S. or other mountains of Patagonia. No doubt the international scope of this escalation help to highlight on a map of the world, "Iker Pou trusts.
signed
So our fifth pathway greatest difficulty in Urriellu Picu, 12 years after getting the first ascent in free and Pilar on the Cantabrian 8a + / 500 m. Are further behind the pillar himself in 1997, Zunbeltz 8b + / 500 m first book in 2003, Fifth Empire 8b/500 m, first to open in 2006, and the opening and subsequent chain of Lurgorri 8c + / 250 m also in 2006. Most of them today yet again.
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