Free Pinky Masterbation

Centennial 2003


Picu Bluff on the centenary of the first ascent

"For years waiting for this moment, on 4 August 2004. I knew we would join a good group climbers, some friends had not seen in a long time, others that each year we gather in the shelter and not possibly meet again in a long time, but I'm sure this day would be all that would not break anyone, it was as an event without be cited, as a magnet that attracted us to these walls and in its centenary year we would all go to worship him as if it were un dios.

"Casi lo es para muchos; por si acaso mi amigo y colega de escaladas Ruben Suarez y yo, nos adelantamos a la fecha abriendo un año antes. La via que ya llevara su nombre y recuerdo de este dia, la via “Centenario”, fue pensada para este glorioso dia del alpinismo español, los días 14 de Mayo, que abrimos la mitad de la ruta y que dejamos por falta de tiempo, hasta el 7 de julio de 2.003 que la rematamos, con 14 horas de escalada , dejándola con una dificultad de Muy Dificil Superior (máximo 6b+/A0) y 670 metros de longitud, siendo una de las mas largas del Naranjo".
Ref: Andrés Villar


CROQUIS


Andrés Villar routes in the Northeast face
Naranjo Ref: Andrés Villar


Ref: Fernando Calvo


Villaret

DESCRIPTION

begins in the Canal de la Celada, right of way Panic Terminal, by some visible cracks, and four long (IV + / V / V +, V / V + / IV, III + and III + / IV / III + ) is reached under a typical crash, which is flanked by his right about twenty feet. Two long
forty
m (V + / III + and IV / III +) can reach via niche-Cainejo Pidal. Three other

rope rolls (V-V + / V and V + / IV-) situate us on the Grande Corniche along which the road Schulze.

starts now be under the heavy burden of the central north face climbing to the left (III +).

The following long followed with the same direction (V + / 6a), to turn sharply to the right and set up the meeting in the bottom left of that heavy burden (this section has three espits, ensuring the most difficult) .

The following eighteen meters (V +) allow us to link with Panic via Terminal, laying continues for another two lengths of rope (6a + / V +, 6b + / 6a / V + / V) to place ourselves above the slab of the mill.

Two long over, slightly diagonal to the right (III + / IV +), lead us to the chimney outlet through which runs the track Pidal-Cainejo, why we continue to the summit (III + / II). O0o

Ref: Isidoro Rodriguez Cubillas Naranjo de Bulnes : A Century of Climbing.



At the top of the mountains always have a few surprises, this time was to see appear to Carlos Suarez, who came to track Rabada-Navarro alone.
was during the centennial of the first ascent of Naranjo de Bulnes. Pilis, Paul, Ruth and I would join us later, Carlos Suarez, enjoy top, time, friends, a good day of climbing.
Ref: Andrés Villar

& See Amazing History Villar Andrés Naranjo in the Celtic Twilight page. O0o